Today we talked about the southwestern part of France, focusing on the Bordeaux region. The region has become very famous for its wines, in part because it has been blessed with great geography (the confluence of two rivers forming an estuary and proximity to both the ocean and a dense forest). The Bordeaux region is also well known for some of the more extravagant culinary treats one can find…for example, foie gras and truffles…unfortunately, neither of which we’d really get to sample today. I think it’s safe to say that if you’re looking for a culinary splurge, travel to the Bordeaux region and you won’t regret it. Just be aware that when you see ‘a la Bordelaise’ next to a particular menu item that it can mean one of four things: 1) red Bordeuax wine sauce flavored with shallots, 2) a sauce based on a mirepoix and white wine, 3) an addition of cepes mushrooms to a dish, or 4) a garnish of potatoes and artichokes.
We began today’s feast with Palourdes a la Bordelaise (Clams, Bordeaux Style):
Clams topped with a sauce made from onion, carrot, celery, heavy cream, white wine, garlic and a few other things.
Flans aux Fois de Volailles, Sauce de Vinaigre Caramelisee (Duck Liver Flans with Caramel Vinegar Sauce):
For anyone that’s ever had a more ‘traditional’ (or familiar) caramel flan, these were basically the same thing, except they were made out of pureed duck livers. They were actually quite good…well, at least I thought so…I don’t think too many of my classmates were fans of this dish and I totally understand the idea that eating duck liver custard is not for everyone. The sauce that accompanied the flans was also good, although I felt that it was a bit on the sweet side and could’ve benefited from a bit more of an acidic bite to it.
Tarte aux Champignons Sauvages (Wild Mushroom Tart):
This tart was beyond good…I’d go so far as saying it was one of the top 5 things that I’ve eaten in culinary school. The filling, consisting of dried cepes and crimini mushrooms, eggs, grated gruyere cheese, heavy cream and cognac, is what made it. I’m happy to make it for anyone that asks provided that they make me an offer I can’t refuse.
The main course was a Gigot a la Bordelaise (Leg of Lamb, Bordeaux Style) that me and one of my fellow students prepared. Here’s the lamb leg being sliced up for service:
And here it is on a bed of roasted potatoes and artichokes:
I was tasked with removing as much of the fat and fell (the thin membrane that lies under the fat that gives lamb it’s ‘funky’ flavor that some people find off-putting). After cleaning up the lamb leg, I rubbed some duck fat, grapeseed oil, salt and pepper all over it and let it sit for about an hour before roasting it on a bed of mandolin-sliced potatoes and artichokes. The lamb was served with a simple sauce made from reduced veal stock, butter and a little potato starch. I was pretty concerned that we were going to overcook the lamb…it took a bit longer to cook than we had anticipated but thanks to modern-technology in the form of an instant-read digital thermometer, we pulled it out of the oven at just the right moment, then let it rest for a few minutes before slicing into it.
I also made this simple salad of green beans and tomatoes:
The key to this was the vinaigrette dressing…nothing fancy, just a dressing made with dijon mustard, lots of shallots, red wine vinegar and olive oil. I allowed the (somewhat sorry looking) tomatoes to marinate in the dressing for a few hours before the salad was served and that made all the difference.
Now presenting, a cavalcade of desserts, beginning with Fraises au Poivre et au Rouge (Fresh Strawberries with Peppercorns and Red Wine):
Tarte aux Noix (Walnut Tart):
Flaugnarde (Batter Cake with Fresh Pears from the Correse):
This one was interesting…the cake itself contained no sugar,
Le Negre (Flourless Chocolate Cake):
The food that we all prepared was especially delicious today. I had never really been all that interested in visiting France prior to the beginning of my second semester at cooking school, but if all French people eat this well, then I may have to reconsider that.
